W ith St. Patrick’s Day around the corner, Irish cheeses have been popping up in gourmet food shops. At first glance, this might seem like an unfortunate gimmick, to be avoided along with green beer. After all, Ireland does not have an illustrious history of cheesemaking. There are no ancient regional varieties to match France’s Reblochon or Italy’s Gorgonzola, and no daily habit of eating cheese with bread, such as led to the tasty, practical cheeses of England. What traditions there were disappeared with the centralization of the dairy industry during World War II, leading to the domination of bland, machine-made Cheddars.
But in recent years, farmhouse cheeses have returned to the Emerald Isle. A number of dedicated natives, along with some European expats, are experimenting with the country’s legendarily rich cream (from animals fed on the country’s wonderfully green grass), combining spectacular local ingredients with a spirit of open-minded creativity, and producing excellent results.
Incredible Irish Cheeses for St. Patrick’s Day St. Patrick’s Day at Epicurious.com.